The Gap Year Guy
My musings, opinions, and experiences during a solo backpacking trip through Central America.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Sunday, April 29, 2012
From Atlantic to Pacific: Bocas del Toro to Playa Santa Catalina
After the short time spent with my host family, I was headed for Panama. My first stop was Bocas del Toro, an Archipelago right off of Panama's Atlantic coast known for its wildlife, and Caribbean vibe. The beaches were stunning, the tiny poison dart frogs were pretty darn cute, and trying to figure out if the boat drivers were talking about you in creole behind your back was a fun linguistic challenge.
After soaking up the Caribbean, why not head over to the Pacific? A hop, skip, and jump across the isthmus that is Panama puts you in Playa Santa Catalina, a.k.a. Surfing Capitol Central America.
The Pacific side was notably different. The sand was darker, the water was less clear, and the region itself seemed to be a bit less economically developed than the Caribbean side. It is interesting to see this striking geographical, cultural, and economic difference less than a hundred miles away from where I was a few days ago.
Mangroves on Isla Bastimento |
Playa Red Frog on Isla Bastimento |
Playa Las Estrellas, Isla Colón |
The Pacific side was notably different. The sand was darker, the water was less clear, and the region itself seemed to be a bit less economically developed than the Caribbean side. It is interesting to see this striking geographical, cultural, and economic difference less than a hundred miles away from where I was a few days ago.
Tidepools at Playa Santa Catalina |
Monday, April 16, 2012
Costa Rica -- San José and Altos de Germania
After a lot of time in Nicaragua, I finally made it across the border into Costa Rica, which is a bit more... um, tourist-friendly. The people are very approachable, they give accurate directions, and the bus driver didn't try to charge me more than he would charge your average tico (slang for Costa Rican person). In San Jose a mix of students, families, and street vendors peacefully meander through very clean parks where tables, booths and tents are set up for everything from chess playing to tie-dying to yoga.
After spending a couple of days in San José, I paid a visit to my old host family from two years ago in Altos de Germania. I showed up unannounced, but they welcomed me into their home again as if I had been there two days ago instead of two years. When I asked if I could stay one night Remundo (my old host dad) said "One night? Stay a whole month if you want!"
Very little had changed. They were reconstructing their house (a tree had fallen on it), but aside from that everything and everyone was the same, and we spent that Sunday the same way we spent every other Sunday when I was there. We chatted a bit, I went to the river with some of my old friends, we played soccer, and then the day ended. The next morning I packed up my things, said goodbye, and moved on.
The house two years ago. |
The house now. |
Friday, March 30, 2012
Isla Ometepe and the Rio San Juan
The volcanic island Isla Ometepe was the first of my last two stops in Nicaragua. The island, rising impressively out of Lake Nicaragua, takes its name from the Nuhatl words ome, meaning "two," and tepetl, meaning "mountain," and is the largest volcanic island on freshwater in the world.
View of the sunset from the back of the ferry |
A ferry carries the entertaining mix of tourists, boat workers, island residents, and every type of cargo from bananas to empty (i think...) coffins on the scenic four-hour ride to Altagracia, the island's main port town.
The crater lake atop Maderas Volcano |
View from the base of Volcan Concepción |
Horse cooling off in Lake Nicaragua |
View across the Río Sábalos, one of the tributaries of the Río San Juan. |
Chillin' outside my room. |
A day in a canoe is sure to keep the blues away. |
Sunday, March 18, 2012
León and Granada
Well, the internship is over and I'm on the road. My most recent stops were Leon and Granada -- both colonial towns with very rich histories.
Believe it or not, this was not my first time to León. As a matter of fact, it was my third. My first visit was early on in my internship when I brought a water sample to the University located in town. That trip ended up with my debit card not working and my having to more or less pawn off my computer at the hostel My second visit was to come back, pay the hostel, and get my computer back. During that trip, however, I discovered that someone had robbed literally all of my money via internet fraud thanks to an insecure connection in one of these internet cafés. The bank recuperated the money, but as you can imagine I left town with pretty bitter (albeit misdirected) feelings toward León. I decided to return early last week and give it one more shot. And I'm glad I did. I spent four days eating, drinking, sleeping and, after months of not being able to enjoy modern amenities like flushing toilets, watching some TV. That doesn't mean spent the entire time in my hostel room, though. I got a pretty good feel for life in León by going to the market, hanging out in the park, and chatting with the kids that frequent the food stands. It's a university town, which gives the place a palpable youth-y vibe. The students are very, very Sandinista (Danielista, that is) -- to the point where they are almost completely blind to the problems that surround them -- and even though their political leanings frustrate me, I can appreciate their energy.
León's history has been long and hard (as has that of all Nicaragua). The castillian colonial buildings themselves practically say everything -- destroyed cathedrals and bullet holes in the walls tell a story of violence and war and a continuing inability to move on and rebuild a united country. If you walk through the central park at night you can see sleeping on benches both a legless war vet and a parentless 10-year-old -- one scarred by a past, the other afraid of the future.
León's liberals and Granada's conservatives fought for a number of years for power -- both wanted to be the capital of Nicaragua. During the revolution in 1979, the Sandinistas (del alma) took over León, but Somoza heartlessly bombed his own people in order to clear the Sandinistas out of the city. The Sandinistas eventually re-took the city and held it until Somoza fell.
Granada is the first European city in mainland America (founded in 1524) and Nicaragua's best-maintained colonial town -- my friend Eva, who is from Spain and has been traveling with me, says that there are a number of parts of the city that are almost exactly like the Granada in Andalusia, Spain. It was in this city where American (Tennessean, in fact) William Walker took up residence and began his campaign to make himself the ruling monarch of Nicaragua and to make Nicaragua itself a slave state of the United States. Yeah, he was kind of crazy. Upon leaving with his private army, Walker set the city ablaze, leaving much of it destroyed, and left the words "here was Granada" printed in ash. Walker ended up placing himself as the President of Nicaraguan in 1856, but was soon defeated by a coalition of Central American armies and was executed in 1860 in Honduras. Granada rebuilt quickly and managed to avoid damage during the violence in the 1980s.
As with any well-kept colonial city, Granada is pretty touristy, so I only stayed one night and managed to enjoy myself despite the throngs of camera-wielding elderly Germans and hippie backpackers.
Right now I'm on Ometepe Island, a volcanic island on Lake Nicaragua. Post to come.
Leon's cathedral |
León's history has been long and hard (as has that of all Nicaragua). The castillian colonial buildings themselves practically say everything -- destroyed cathedrals and bullet holes in the walls tell a story of violence and war and a continuing inability to move on and rebuild a united country. If you walk through the central park at night you can see sleeping on benches both a legless war vet and a parentless 10-year-old -- one scarred by a past, the other afraid of the future.
León's liberals and Granada's conservatives fought for a number of years for power -- both wanted to be the capital of Nicaragua. During the revolution in 1979, the Sandinistas (del alma) took over León, but Somoza heartlessly bombed his own people in order to clear the Sandinistas out of the city. The Sandinistas eventually re-took the city and held it until Somoza fell.
Part of Granada's central plaza, the cathedral, and a few colonial buildings |
As with any well-kept colonial city, Granada is pretty touristy, so I only stayed one night and managed to enjoy myself despite the throngs of camera-wielding elderly Germans and hippie backpackers.
Right now I'm on Ometepe Island, a volcanic island on Lake Nicaragua. Post to come.
Monday, March 12, 2012
The Coffee Process
One of my favorite experiences as a part of my internship has been carrying out the entire process of picking, de-pulping, threshing, drying, roasting, and drinking delicious coffee. The whole process takes places onsite at La Biosfera.
The coffee fruit turns a bright red when ripe, and at that point it is picked and soaked in a bucked before being depulped. |
Obviously this is usually done on a much larger scale, but since we only have about 30 coffee plants, we use what very well may be the smallest coffee de-pulper on the planet.
After being de-pulped, the beans are allowed to dry out in the sun for a few days. |
This is what the beans look like once they have been threshed. Now, its ready to be roasted. |
This type of clay dish is what was used to roast coffee before machinery ever existed. The smell of fresh coffee grew stronger and stronger as we roasted them over a bed of coals. |
The final product. Earthy and not too acidic. Yum. |
Thursday, March 8, 2012
La Biosfera in a Nutshell
Well, my internship here is wrapping up -- I'm done on Saturday. We've gotten a lot done to improve on the existing permaculture models, add some new ones, completely renovate the water system, and ramp up La Biosfera's publicity. I'm realizing that I still haven't published any pictures of the place itself, so here are some photos of the recycling/permaculture initiatives (specifically for families with very few resources) we have going on:
Bunk beds made out of recycled truck tires. Very, Very comfortable. The wood came from a zapatillo tree that had already fallen on the property. |
The posada where guests sleep (and where all the tire trunk bunks are) was made using earthbag construction -- bags filled with dirt and then stacked like bricks. |
This is one of the three gardens on site, this one recently expanded. We've just started planting and some plants are already poking out of the soil. |
We still haven't perfected the system, but we're working on heating our water with compost. It has worked a few times, but not totally consistent. |
Mobile chicken coop. The chickens tear up the dirt, eat the bugs, and fertilize the soil in areas where you are planning to plant a garden. |
Water swale. In one of my previous posts I put up a video explaining how a swale works. Well, here's ours. I spent most of last week tearing up old cement and resealing it. |
This is the latest addition and in my opinion the best example of a self-incentivizing recycling initiative. A plastic bottle filled with water retracts light at 360 degrees. Very simple to install and provides 50 watts of light.
So there you have it. La Biosfera in a nutshell. In my next post I'll talk about the coffee we grow, pick, depulp, thresh, toast, and (of course) drink all on site.
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